Salsas: Rojo, Verde, Ranchero

I'd been thinking about doing a Mexican feast for a few weeks. At this time of year, avocados and limes and mangoes are cheap and nothing local is really in season yet. Plus I'm generally sick of wintery foods and want something brighter. So I'd been toying with the idea, but didn't quite know how to get around the lack of decent tomatoes. Then, on St. Patrick's Day, the New York Times posted this article on authentic Mexican salsas. I was inspired.


Each salsa is very different than the others, and each recipe yields about 1 quart of salsa.

First, the salsa roja was a disappointment. I love cinnamon, but this was just too cinnamony for my taste. Instead of providing background sweetness, the canela dominated the dish. However, I have found a way to use it, as I'll explain in a later post.


Salsa Roja
Adapted from the NY Times

2 pounds roma tomatoes (or 1 28-ounce can stewed tomatoes)
3 tablespoons light olive oil
4-8 dried chiles de arbol (or Thai or pequin)
1 small, sliced yellow onion
1 clove peeled garlic
6 whole cloves
1/2 piece Mexican canela
1/4 teaspoon salt

If using fresh tomatoes, place in a pot with water to cover and simmer 15 minutes. Drain and puree in the blender.

In a skillet, heat oil until shimmering. Add chiles, onion, garlic, cloves and canela (or spices), sprinkle with salt and cook over medium-low heat, stirring, until softened and golden, about 8 minutes. Add tomato purée or canned tomatoes and simmer, stirring often, until thickened and slightly sweet, about 15 minutes. Taste and add more salt if needed, keeping in mind that cold food tastes saltier than hot food. Puree in the blender until smooth.

Next, the salsa verde was delicious and light, and was excellent on fish a few days later.

Salsa Verde

Adapted from the NY Times

3 tablespoons grape seed oil
2 pounds tomatillos, husks removed, halved
6 to 12 serrano chilies, stems and seeds removed*
1/2 onion, peeled
1 clove garlic, also peeled*
12 whole sprigs cilantro, stems included (about a handful)
juice of 3-6 limes
Salt

*I used six and found the salsa to be well-balanced: it had enough heat to be kicky, but not so much I couldn't taste the other flavors.

*I substituted four green garlics.

1. In a wide skillet, heat oil until shimmering but not smoking. Add tomatillos, chilies, onion (cut side down) and garlic. Cook over medium-high heat, turning often, until vegetables are browned, turning to black (I got distracted, and mine turned black, to no negative effect), and seared on all sides.

2. Add cilantro (and garlic greens) and purée with blender until smooth and creamy, adding a little water if needed to loosen. Season to taste with salt and lime juice. The sauce should be tart and spicy but rounded in flavor.

Finally, the salsa ranchera was the favorite. I believe it would have been excellent with huevos for breakfast, but sadly, there were no leftovers.


Salsa Ranchera

Adapted from the NY Times

1/4 oz dried guajillo or New Mexico chiles
1/4 oz dried ancho chiles
6 roma tomatoes
2/ cloves garlic
3/4 cup diced onion
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 poblano chile, roasted, stemmed, seeded and diced*
salt

*I may have not read the recipe closely and diced my poblano without roasting it, then seared it in a dry pan over high heat. Although this meant I couldn't remove the skins and they were a bit tough at first, after a few hours you couldn't tell the difference.

Cover dried chiles with boiling water and let steep until tender, 1 to 3 hours. Drain off and reserve soaking water. Purée chilies in a blender or food processor, adding soaking water as needed to make a smooth paste. (The longer you can soak the chiles, the less water you will need and the easier this process will be.) Strain to remove skin bits and set aside.

2. In a pot, combine tomatoes, garlic, 1/2 cup onion, cumin, 2 tablespoons of chile puree, and 1/2 cup water. Simmer 10 minutes. Purée in a blender, then pour into a skillet.

3. Bring to a simmer and stir in remaining 1/4 cup chopped onion, diced poblano chili and salt to taste. Let simmer another few minutes to help flavors blend.